TIME WELL HUED

The Universal Genève Polerouter was developed for pilots as a precision instrument that could withstand the magnetic conditions at the North Pole. Soon the original also became a canvas for color, showing that Universal Genève and its partners were pioneers when it came to vibrant dials.

Blue dials on watches have been around since the 1600s. This is thanks to enameling – a jeweler’s craft that translated extremely well to timekeeping creations, especially with astronomy-based pieces including moon phases and other stellar inventions designed to evoke the night sky.

Green and turquoise were also among the early colors applied to watch dials through enameling, where powdered glass adheres to a metallic surface over multiple firings in red-hot furnaces. Lacquered and electroplated blues and greens started to appear in the 1950s, and Universal Genève was among the first to use them, together with its dial-making partners. These colors gathered proper momentum in the 1960s and ’70s, an experimental era when stone dials also appeared in blue lapis lazuli, green malachite and golden-brown tiger’s eye.

When looking at watches from this era, one must also remember that preserving a watch in its original condition (or in watch speak, “originality”) was not a prerequisite as it is to most collectors today. Test dials, prototypes and other non-production materials were available on the market, which appealed to watch owners who wanted something different – or who simply needed a replacement part for their everyday timepiece.

“Watches with such colored aftermarket dials can be unique and look great. But from an auction perspective they are, in general, of less interest than factory-issued watches,” described Mikael Wallhagen, European Head of Watches at Sotheby’s. Wallhagen, however, is well aware that some collectors don’t mind aftermarket modifications, and points notably to one of Universal Genève’s chief suppliers of dials in various colors and motifs: Stern Frères. “They are the kings of dials!” he exclaimed.

This is a rare, electric-blue Polerouter in steel from the late 1960s. Its nuanced dial has been given the nickname “lapis,” but has, in fact, nothing to do with the pyrite-speckled semi-precious stone. No, this blue dial with its psychedelic night-sky pattern of light blue dots surrounded by yellow indexes is supposedly achieved through vitreous enamel. The starry dots could also be seen as a sign of the times, as the space race, which had captured the public’s imagination, found its way into every aspect of art and design.

This watch is ticking proof that the more you dig into the Polerouter, the more you realize is out there. But its background is enigmatic, as the dial has not yet been identified in the Universal Genève archives. What further adds to its uniqueness: Each dial that has surfaced so far carries its own distinct speckled pattern. This watch could be a prototype that never made it into production. It might also be a replaced dial not approved by the Geneva head office, or the result of a service watchmaker offering an upgrade dial, something that many brands did in the 1960s. As the owner put it: “People didn’t care as much about originality back then.” But if you’re a collector who loves color and rarity, this timepiece ticks all the boxes. 

Soon after its 1954 launch, the Polerouter collection became a vehicle for artistic exploration, as seen on this elegant, 35mm evergreen-dial model from 1969. Here, the original construction of inner and outer bezel has given way to a less-is-more execution. The slightly concave, glossy lacquered green dial is heightened by diamond indexes all around – apart from at three o’clock, where a somewhat robust metallic square frames the date aperture.  

At this time, lacquered forest green would have been a rare color choice, showing that Universal Genève was pioneering this technique which, alongside electroplating (a process of coating metal surfaces using electric current) a few years later, would become a widespread alternative to enameling.

The deep green of this dial marries well with its more-is-more surroundings. Both case and bracelet are made of white gold, making this a smooth embodiment of the rich elegance of the 1960s. The supple bracelet with its flush wrist feel makes for the desirable combination of being high end, yet apparently simple. And again, you are in for a surprise when you turn it around to reveal an extremely elaborate construction of soldered gold wire which is needed to support the bracelet’s serpentine exterior.  

Given its luxurious, rare – or possibly singular – execution in white gold, it comes as no surprise that the crown is simplified and not a screw-down, as water resistance would not have been not paramount for such a watch. The discreet crown is also an if-you-know-you-know signal for Universal Genève aficionados, as the gold watches normally have a smaller crown than those made of steel. But it is large enough to be topped with the signature Universal Genève “U.”