History | Universal Genève

1894

THE COMPANY FORMS

Numa-Émile Descombes and Ulysse-Georges Perret, two watchmakers from Le Locle, Switzerland, found their company on January 18, establishing the trademark “Universal Watch”—a name as big as their ambitions.

1897

Louis Berthoud arrives

After Descombes’ passing, Perret promotes his business-savvy accountant, Louis Berthoud, to partner. A year later, the pair presents the Universal Watch Extra, a chronograph with a 30-minute counter.

1919

Move to Geneva

With a full range of elegant timepieces, Perret and Berthoud move their headquarters to Geneva, linking their flourishing brand to the city’s watchmaking prestige. Within two years, they relocate to a fashionable address on Rue de Rhône.

1933

Raoul Perret takes over

The son of Ulysse-Georges takes the helm of the company. Educated in business and watchmaking, with a love of art and architecture, his vision will steer the company for the next 40 years, giving it a truly universal reach.

1933

The “Cabriolet” emerges

Patented in 1933, the Universal Genève Ideo is one of the earliest reversible watches. Its hinged design allows the wearer to shield the crystal by turning it caseback-side out. Admirers will call it the “Cabriolet,” a name that persists.

1936

DEBUT OF THE COMPAX

Now known officially as Universal Genève, the company introduces its first hour-counter wrist chronograph. The iconic watch will go on to have many iterations tailored to professions from medicine to aviation.

1941

Rapid expansion

At the height of WWII, with demand for its chronographs soaring, Universal Genève begins construction on a new factory in Les Ponts-de-Martel. State-of-the-art in every way, the facility opens in an astounding five and a half months.

1944

Arrival of the Tri-Compax

The legendary triple-register chronograph with complete calendar exemplifies elegance and simplicity despite its complex functions. It quickly becomes an international success.

1954

Flight of the Polerouter

At just 23, famed watch designer Gérald Genta conceives the Polerouter, his first major design. The model is resistant to magnetic fields and commemorates the historic SAS Copenhagen-Los Angeles flight over the North Pole.

1956

A new manufacture

Universal opens a new factory in Carouge, near Geneva. Designed by modernist architect Paul-André Davoine, the facility features double-height windows on its three floors, vibration-proof foundations, and a master clock for precise time distribution.

1960s

Reviving the classics

The brand’s Compax series gets a sportier design. It includes the collectors’ favorite “Nina Rindt” chronograph and full-calendar Tri-Compax “Eric Clapton,” nicknamed for their famous wearers.

1966

A MAJOR ACHIEVEMENT

Universal Genève releases the world’s thinnest automatic movement at the Basel watch fair. The caliber 66 debuts in the White Shadow, Gilt Shadow, and Golden Shadow—watches with a height of just 2.5 mm. Caliber 66 will hold the record for the thinnest self-winding movement until 1978.

1967

Launch of the Space Compax

While its name conjures the space-race era of its release, it’s a watch designed for nautical sports. Its standout features are the rubber pushers, enabling it to withstand greater depths.

1970

Designer timepieces

With “Le Couturier de la Montre” now Universal Genève’s trademarked slogan, the brand enlists Italian fashion designer Roberta Di Camerino to create a collection of women’s watches. The imaginative pieces are presented at the prestigious “Montres et Bijoux de Genève” salon.

1975

Caliber 74 unveiling

The brand releases a new record-breaking movement. At only 3.45 mm, it’s the world’s thinnest analog display quartz movement. Like the ultra-thin caliber 66 before it, the 74 makes its first appearance in the Golden Shadow Quartz.

1989

Stelux takes over

Hong Kong-based watch company Stelux purchases Universal Genève, going on to release a range of watches inspired by vintage models, including the Janus, a convertible watch in platinum for the company’s centennial, inspired by the Cabriolet.

2023

A NEW CHAPTER

Despite a period of dormancy lasting nearly four decades, Universal Genève gains revered status among vintage watch collectors. In 2023, the brand is acquired by private-investment firms Partners Group and CVC Capital Partners. Alfred Gantner, co-founder of Partners Group, tells the press, “Universal Genève is renowned for its in-house movements and mythical models. Watch enthusiasts have long dreamed of its permanent return.”