MICROTOR BACK IN MOTION

Gregory Bruttin has long admired the Microtor—it was among the first integrated rotor movements he encountered as a young watchmaker. Now, as Managing Director of Universal Genève, he is spearheading the revival of this classic caliber for a new generation of watches slated for release next year. “It is an incredible movement, a strike of human genius,” he remarks.

As a 1950s watch consumer, you had a choice to make: Purchase a slim and elegant watch, or one with the convenience of an automatic wind. You couldn’t have it both ways. The winding mechanism sat on top of the movement, adding to its thickness.

The 1958 release of the Universal Genève Microtor resolved this dilemma. At only 4.1mm, it held the world record for thinnest automatic movement. What set it apart was its ability to blend seamlessly into the caliber, offering automatic winding with minimal bulk.

“Today, it seems obvious to integrate the rotor into the movement, but at the time this was revolutionary,” Bruttin says, adding the Microtor exemplifies what has been Universal Genève’s modus operandi since its inception: to marry creativity with practicality in watch design.

“With a micro rotor, you can really see the mechanical beauty of the movement,” he says. “It perfectly illustrates Universal Genève’s philosophy of always finding technical solutions to ensure that its creations were refined, beautiful and useful.”

The path to a finished Microtor had its share of challenges. Chief among them was the use of tungsten—a heavy metal difficult to machine but essential for compensating for the rotor’s reduced size. As the wearer moved their wrist, the weight of the tungsten enabled the compact rotor to pivot efficiently, transforming kinetic energy into the mechanical power necessary to wind the mainspring—enough power to generate a reserve of 48 hours or more.

Addressing technical hurdles was made easier thanks to the vision of Universal Genève’s then-director Raoul Perret. His state-of-the-art Carouge factory outside Geneva put designers and engineers side by side, making it possible to quickly test and optimize the caliber’s mechanics within the design constraints. This real-time collaboration between experts of form and function was a rarity in watchmaking then—and remains so today.

The Carouge facility gave Universal Genève full control of the production of the movement type that would soon be mimicked by many competitors. But, even so, Perret did not rest on his laurels: In 1959, only one year after the Microtor launch, Universal Genève filed a patent that would lay the technical foundation for an even thinner micro rotor caliber. At only 2.5 mm high, it set a new world record when it debuted in the mid 1960s.

Universal’s innovative micro rotor calibers would go on to grace some of the brand’s most iconic models, including the Dioramic, the White Shadow and the Gérald Genta-designed Polerouter.

It was fitting, then, that the first newly designed pieces introduced by Universal Genève as part of its 2024 relaunch—a trio of tribute watches coinciding with the 70th anniversary of the Polerouter—were crafted using historic Microtor movements. Universal’s heritage, literally and symbolically, providing the foundation of what’s to come.

Looking forward, Bruttin says the Universal Genève philosophy established by Perret and his predecessors will continue to guide the brand and push it forward. “Functionality and design will be the drivers as we give new life to the brand known as Le Couturier de la Montre, while the technical side is there to help us find solutions,” says Bruttin. “The future of Universal Genève will be one of beautiful, elegant and refined watches which, thanks to the technological advances of the past 20 years, will respond even better to the expectations of our customers.”