LUCA MIGNINI: CHANCE ENCOUNTERS AND THE CHRONO’S ALLURE

Entrepreneur and former COO of the Campbell Soup Company, Luca Mignini’s path to collecting Universal Genève chronographs wasn’t one of deliberate pursuit but rather a series of unexpected discoveries. The first spark? A spontaneous stroll through a Tokyo market nearly 20 years ago, where a vintage Tri-Compax caught his eye and forever altered his collecting trajectory. Today, as one of Universal Genève’s most devoted collectors, Mignini’s focus remains firmly on the chronographs and complications that exemplify the artistry and engineering of the brand’s golden age.

“In the beginning I collected other brands, but I always admired Universal Genève. I thought they had such a huge variety of graphics, cases, and different tools – watches in the 1930s were used as tools,” Luca Mignini said to UG Magazine at the vintage watch dealer Bernardini Milano as we photographed some of the longtime collector’s standout chronographs.  

Being a perceptive and sensitive collector, Mignini was struggling to combine the tool-watch vibe with the style he was looking for. But one day around 20 years ago, a spontaneous visit to a Tokyo market changed everything.  

“I wasn’t looking for watches that day,” he recalled. “But there in a stall I found a bunch of them, including a Universal Genève Tri-Compax in great condition that I really loved. It was one of the first Universal Genève that I bought, and it felt like I had found a treasure.”  

Mignini’s unexpected find kicked off an educational journey. Early on he learned that Universal – unlike many of its contemporaries – was making its movements in-house, whereas most other brands of the time were reliant on suppliers. “The learning is 95 percent of the journey as a collector, and collecting is not about owning,” Mignini said. “It is about the love of watches.”

After many years as a collector, Mignini’s knowledge – and focus – has grown. “Today I collect only chronographs. Or watches with complications that include a chronograph. Tri-Compax is one of the most iconic known to a wider audience with calendar and moonphase.”

When asked to name a top three amongst the Universal pieces he brought to the shoot, Mignini grappled with the question for a few seconds before announcing all three would be from his favorite period: the 1930s and ’40s.  

“Let’s start with number three,” he began. “An incredible Compur with a gilt dial. It has multiple scales – telemetric, tachymetric. This is only 35mm and you have all that information with a wonderful balance. It has a special case from Jeanneret with very pronounced lugs – one of my all-time favorites.”  

In second place, a Gray Ghost Compax – a very rare specimen. Less than a handful of these dials have surfaced, most likely as test or prototype examples. While it remains unclear when this specific dial was assembled with its case and hands, its breathtaking minimalist appeal is undeniable. “This came out of the 1940s,” he said. “But it looks like a modern watch. In terms of aesthetics, it was the first Universal that struck my imagination.” 

But if Mignini had to choose one single piece from his Universal collection it would be a 1935 Compur Colonial. “The Colonial, which was first introduced in 1934, is unmatched,” he said. “All I did with this piece was change to a Gay Frères bracelet from the period. The tonneau case, which was huge for the time when watches used to be 33 to 34mm, is exceptional. It’s the summary of all the style and sophistication you can imagine. So Colonial, for me, is the dream watch.” 

For Mignini there are several indicators beyond the obvious qualities that are proof of quality of Universal Genève – for instance that UG was producing chronographs with gilt dials for Hermès, and that several air forces including those of Italy, Brazil and Argentina, turned to the company to produce their essential precision watches. And still, to him, the personal value exceeds the price. “You can have a Universal Genève that gives you similar emotions and similar qualities to those of a million-dollar vintage watch from another brand.”